Gordon's Bay is a harbour village tucked into the corner of False Bay, with houses stacked up the mountainside and holiday flats near the beach. Rodents in roofs, gulls on rooftops and ants in summer are what we deal with most.
Rats in Gordon's Bay homes and the harbour
Gordon's Bay's rats come down the slopes of the Hottentots Holland mountains, especially in winter, and get into roofs, garages and the sub-floor voids of houses built on steep plots. Homes stacked up the mountainside often have garages and storerooms under the house, and those dark, quiet spaces are where rats settle first. Around the harbour, the restaurants and boats keep a separate population fed.
Holiday homes that sit empty for weeks give rats time to nest undisturbed. We trap in roofs and sub-floor areas, bait outside in lockable stations and seal entry points, and we can set up stations before you lock up for the season.
The village sits right at the foot of the mountains, with the GB anchor above town and the sea in front. The South-Easter is famously strong here, sometimes funnelling down the mountain in powerful gusts. Fynbos on the slopes brings scorpions, spiders and rodents close to homes.
Which rat is in your Gordon's Bay home?
Brown rat
Rattus norvegicus- Norway rat
- Sewer rat
- Family Muridae
- Body
- Heavy and thickset
- Nose
- Blunt and rounded
- Ears
- Small, furry, close to head
- Tail
- Shorter than its body
- Weight
- 250 to 500 g
- Droppings
- Up to 2 cm, blunt ends
- Burrow holes along walls, under paving and sheds
- Greasy rub marks low down along skirting and walls
- Gnawed bins, compost heaps and pet food bags
- Coming up through drains and broken sewer pipes
Black rat
Rattus rattus- Roof rat
- Ship rat
- Family Muridae
- Body
- Slim and agile
- Nose
- Pointed
- Ears
- Large, thin, almost bare
- Tail
- Longer than its body
- Weight
- 150 to 250 g
- Droppings
- About 1.2 cm, pointed
- Scratching and running in the ceiling at night
- Droppings in the roof space, cupboards and on beams
- Chewed cables, insulation and ceiling boards
- Running along fences, power lines and tree branches
ActiveBusierPeak, as rats move indoors in the cold, wet winter
A note from the field
People often block the hole the rat used and trap it inside the roof. Always deal with the rats before you seal the last gap.
Rats are neophobic, which means they avoid new things. A trap that has not been touched for a few days is not a failure; it often works after they get used to it.
How to tell you have a problem
Tick every sign you have noticed. It takes ten seconds.
What happens when we come out
First we identify the rat and track its route, because a roof rat problem is solved at the roof line and a Norway rat problem at ground level and in the drains. In the roof and inside the house we prefer heavy-duty snap traps, so there is no smell from a rat dying in the ceiling. Outdoors we use lockable, tamper-resistant bait stations, positioned along runs and fixed so they cannot be moved, and we do a bait risk assessment where pets, children or owls are around. Then we proof: steel mesh over vents, sealing gaps around pipes and cables, and advice on trimming branches. Burrows are treated and collapsed after the colony is dealt with.
- Identify the rat
We look at droppings, tracks and entry points to tell a roof rat from a Norway rat.
- Find the runs
We trace the routes from nest to food, inside and outside the property.
- Traps and stations
Snap traps go inside and locked bait stations outside, placed on the actual runs.
- Proofing
Gaps, vents and roof entry points are closed with steel mesh and cement.
- Follow-up check
We return to check traps and stations, adjust the plan and leave a report.
Keeping them out afterwards
- Trim back trees and creepers at least a metre from the roof, because roof rats jump from them.
- Pick up fallen fruit, avocados and pet food every evening.
- Do not leave building rubble or wood piles against the house for months.
- Fit drain covers and check that old drain pipes are not broken underground.
- Keep compost in a closed bin and do not add meat or cooked food.
How much will it cost?
Price depends on the size of the property, which rat species you have and how many entry points need proofing. A roof rat problem with lots of overhanging trees takes more proofing work than a single burrow in the garden. Follow-up visits are part of most rat jobs and are included in the free quote.
One rat in a garden shed can be caught with a decent snap trap and some patience. Rats in the roof are smart and cautious, and loose poison from the shop often ends with a smell in the ceiling and a sick dog, so I would call someone in once they are in the house.
Frequently asked questions
Why do rats get under my Gordon's Bay house?
Houses on steep plots often have open sub-floor voids and garages under them. Sealing those gaps and baiting outside keeps rats out.
Can you treat my Gordon's Bay holiday home while I'm away?
Yes, if access is arranged. We'll send you a post-treatment report with what we found and did.
Can you get rid of rats near a river or canal?
Yes, but properties near water usually need ongoing stations and good proofing, because new rats keep arriving.
Are rats dangerous to my children?
Rats can bite and spread disease through urine and droppings, so it is worth dealing with them quickly.
Is there a guarantee?
Yes, our treatments carry a minimum 3-month guarantee.
How are rats getting into my roof?
Roof rats climb trees, walls and cables and squeeze in under roof tiles, fascia boards or through open eaves.
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